In a world gasping for a breath of civility, I woke up Aug. 5
in a southwestern New York oasis, not too far from Niagara Falls. Strolling down winding red-brick paths,
shaded by a canopy of trees, I heard voices—with divergent views—spilling from
wraparound verandas and upstairs porches.
But what I didn’t hear were angry tones.
Other than applause, the loudest commotion came from gaggles of kids,
cackling as they pedaled by on their bikes.
For the
first 24 hours, I wondered whether I was dreaming. And then I learned more about this place
that’s just below Canada and very near Lake Erie. The Chautauqua Institution is celebrating its
144th anniversary. In 1905,
President Theodore Roosevelt called it “the
most American place in America.”
Now I see
why.
With roots
in Methodism, the Institution has grown into a smorgasbord of religions. Every
morning, there’s a worship service in a 6,000-seat amphitheater, but it’s not
all about religion. Walking around the
fountain in historic Bestor Square, our host pointed out Chautauqua’s four
pillars etched in the statue: “Knowledge,
Music, Art and Religion.” It is a
mecca of lifelong learning squeezed into a nine-week summer season.
Everywhere you turn on the 750-acre pedestrian-oriented campus, you can
feel a tug to learn more about the history of this place perched on the banks
of 13,000-acre Chautauqua Lake. (Visit chq.org.) Just listening to passersby, I was—as a first-timer—in
the minority. I heard countless
octogenarians and older bubbling about coming since childhood. Even the dogs on leashes were cordial to each
other.

A Chautauqua favorite is discussions
on the porches of the Victorian, Queen Anne and Craftsman-style houses. Many date back to the 1800s. Others were built to look historic. Some of our chats were on the porch, but most
were around a long kitchen table.
On the farm,
we’d call those conversations “the heart of the watermelon.” Everything about Chautauqua is ripe with
uplifting experiences. And just like
that luscious center of a watermelon, I savored the opportunity to listen to seven
other adults—with varied backgrounds—talk about their lives. In the diverse group, these things stood out:
*Civility
ruled spirited conversations.
*Laughter punctuated
almost every topic.
*Four
couples had 193 combined years of marriage.
*Departing
handshakes were followed by hugs.
Among the parade
of speakers, I picked famed cellist Yo-Yo Ma as the “heart of the watermelon.” Born in Paris to Chinese parents who migrated
to New York, Yo-Yo’s Grammy-winning music is stringed magic. But his words were just as magical. He brought 6,000 to their feet with both.
World War II’s
Gen. George Marshall described a leader as a person who exerts an influence
that makes you want to do better than you thought you could. Yo-Yo’s charisma radiates that kind of
hope. His keen vision for the world is
wrapped in compassion and common sense, inspiring others to do their best, too.
Chautauqua
is like walking in a flower garden. Color is bursting everywhere, as is
laughter. That’s why I adopted Louis Armstrong’s
“What a Wonderful World” as my sound track for our eight-day visit. With each step I could hear Satchmo’s raspy
voice singing: “Yes, I think to myself …
what a wonderful world … Oh, yeah.”
Chautauqua
is the heart of America’s watermelon.
Oh, yeaaaaaaah.
dnesmith@cninewspapers.com